New: The denim glossary, 35 terms explained → · Guides to jeans, fabric, fit, style and care

A field guide to denim

Made to be worn. Then mended.

Straight talk about jeans: where denim comes from, how to pick a pair that fits and lasts, how to wear it, how to look after it, and what to do when it finally tears.

  1. Start here
  2. No. 07The Denim Glossary: 35 Terms Every Jeans Lover Should Know
  3. No. 03The Jeans Fit Guide: Skinny, Slim, Straight, Tapered, Bootcut and Wide
  4. No. 01What Is Selvedge Denim? A Plain-English Guide

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The archive

Every guide

No. 01 Denim 101 What Is Selvedge Denim? A Plain-English Guide Selvedge, self-edge, redline: what the terms mean, how selvedge denim is made, and whether it’s worth paying more for. 2 min read No. 02 Denim 101 Raw vs Washed Denim: Which Should You Buy? Raw denim fades to fit your life; washed denim is comfortable from day one. How they differ, and which suits you. 2 min read No. 03 Style The Jeans Fit Guide: Skinny, Slim, Straight, Tapered, Bootcut and Wide A clear guide to the main jeans fits, who each one suits, and what to do when a pair almost fits. 2 min read No. 04 Denim 101 A Short History of Denim: From French Mills to the World’s Wardrobe Where denim and jeans come from, how a rivet patent created the modern jean, and why we still wear them 150 years later. 2 min read No. 05 Buying Guides How to Buy Jeans That Last: 8 Things to Check Before You Pay Fabric weight, cotton content, stitching and fit: a practical checklist for jeans that last years, not months. 2 min read No. 06 Buying Guides Buying Vintage and Second-Hand Jeans: A Practical Guide How to find great second-hand jeans, check them for hidden damage, and turn an almost-perfect charity-shop find into your favourite pair. 2 min read No. 07 Denim 101 The Denim Glossary: 35 Terms Every Jeans Lover Should Know From selvedge and sanforised to whiskers, honeycombs and chain stitch: the denim vocabulary, explained in plain English. 2 min read No. 08 Denim 101 How Jeans Are Made: From Cotton Field to Five-Pocket Every pair of jeans goes through a long journey: growing, spinning, dyeing, weaving, cutting, sewing and washing. Here’s each step. 2 min read No. 09 Denim 101 Indigo Explained: Why Jeans Are Blue (and Why They Fade) The story of indigo dye, from ancient plant vats to modern synthetic indigo, and the clever chemistry behind denim’s famous fade. 2 min read No. 10 Denim 101 Japanese Denim Explained: Why Denim Fans Rave About It How Japan became the home of premium denim, what makes Japanese denim different, and whether it’s worth the price. 2 min read No. 11 Style How to Wear Double Denim (Without Looking Like a Throwback) Denim on denim can look brilliant or accidental. Simple rules for contrast, fit and accessories that make double denim work. 2 min read No. 12 Style The Denim Jacket Guide: Styles, Fit and How to Make One Last Trucker, oversized, sherpa or chore: the main denim jacket styles, how one should fit, and how to care for and repair it. 2 min read No. 13 Care & Repair Why Do Jeans Rip at the Crotch? Causes, Fixes and Prevention The crotch is the first place most jeans fail. Here is why it happens, what a proper repair looks like, and how to stop it happening again. 2 min read No. 14 Care & Repair Crotch Reinforcement: Why It’s Worth Protecting Jeans Before They Tear Reinforcing the crotch of new or lightly worn jeans costs less than a repair and can add years to their life. How it works and who it is for. 2 min read No. 15 Care & Repair Cycling in Jeans: How to Stop Wearing Through Your Denim Saddles are brutal on denim. Practical tips for cyclists who want their jeans to survive the daily commute. 2 min read No. 16 Care & Repair Ripped Knees: How to Repair Torn Jeans at the Knee Knee rips are one of the most common reasons jeans get thrown away. Your options, from iron-on patches to visible mending to invisible repairs. 2 min read No. 17 Fit & Alterations How to Pin Your Jeans for Hemming (So They Come Back the Perfect Length) A step-by-step guide to pinning jeans at home before taking or sending them for hemming, plus the most common mistakes. 2 min read No. 18 Fit & Alterations Original Hem vs Standard Hem: Which Should You Choose for Your Jeans? Shortening jeans? The difference between a standard hem and an original (euro) hem, and when keeping the factory fade is worth it. 2 min read No. 19 Fit & Alterations How to Measure Your Inside Leg Correctly (Jeans Inseam Guide) A simple guide to measuring the inside leg (inseam) at home, for buying jeans online, hemming, or turning jeans into shorts. 2 min read No. 20 Care & Repair Holes in Your Jeans Pockets? Pocket Bag Repair vs Replacement Keys and coins falling through your pockets? How worn pocket bags are repaired or replaced, and how to tell which you need. 2 min read No. 21 Care & Repair Torn Back Pocket Corners: Why They Happen and How to Fix Them Back pocket corners pulling away from your jeans? Why it happens, why a quick re-stitch fails, and what a lasting repair involves. 2 min read No. 22 Care & Repair Belt Loop Ripped Off Your Jeans? Here’s How to Fix It Properly A torn belt loop often takes a chunk of waistband with it. Why simply sewing it back on doesn’t last, and what does. 2 min read No. 23 Care & Repair Broken Zip on Your Jeans? Fix It, Repair It or Replace It Zip won’t stay up, teeth missing or slider broken? How jeans zips fail, the DIY fixes worth trying, and when it needs a pro. 2 min read No. 24 Care & Repair Lost the Button on Your Jeans? Why Jeans Buttons Need a Press Jeans buttons aren’t sewn on, they’re pressed on. Why DIY kits often fail, and what a lasting replacement involves. 2 min read No. 25 Care & Repair Sashiko: The Japanese Art of Visible Denim Mending Sashiko is a centuries-old Japanese stitching technique that turns repairs into decoration. What it is, why it suits denim, and how to start. 2 min read No. 26 Denim 101 Repair, Don’t Replace: The Environmental Case for Fixing Your Jeans Jeans are among the most resource-hungry garments we own. Why repairing denim is one of the simplest ways to cut your fashion footprint. 2 min read No. 27 Care & Repair Postal Clothing Repair: How to Send Your Jeans Away to Be Fixed No good tailor nearby? Postal repair services fix jeans by mail. How they work, how to pack your jeans, and what to check before you choose one. 2 min read No. 28 Care & Repair How to Wash Jeans So They Last Longer (and Fade Beautifully) How often should you wash jeans, and how? Practical denim care that keeps colour in and holes out. 2 min read No. 29 Fit & Alterations Jeans Leg Tapering: How to Turn Wide or Bootcut Jeans Slim Love your jeans but not the wide leg? Tapering slims the leg from the knee or the whole leg down. What’s possible, and what to ask for. 2 min read No. 30 Style How to Turn Old Jeans into Shorts (Raw Cut-Offs or Clean Hem) Give tired jeans a second life as summer shorts. Choosing a length, raw versus folded hems, and how to get a straight cut. 2 min read No. 31 Fit & Alterations How to Fix a Waist Gap in Jeans Without Ruining the Fit Jeans fit your hips but gape at the back of the waist? Your options, from quick fixes to an invisible dart alteration. 2 min read No. 32 Care & Repair Repairing Designer and Selvedge Jeans: What You Need to Know Expensive jeans deserve a careful repair. How to protect the look, fades and value of designer, raw and selvedge denim when it tears. 2 min read