When jeans are shortened, there are two main ways to do it. Both get you the right length, but they look quite different at the bottom of the leg.
Standard hem
The jeans are cut to the new length, the raw edge is folded twice and stitched down, ideally in thread matched to the original. The finish is clean and crisp, like a new pair off the shelf.
Best for: dark or rinse-wash jeans, raw denim, smarter jeans, and anyone who wants a neat, uniform finish.
Original hem
An original hem (often called a "euro hem") keeps the bottom few centimetres of the jeans exactly as they are. The excess length is removed from above the hem, and the original hem is reattached higher up. The natural fading, whiskering and finish all stay intact.
Best for: washed, faded or distressed jeans, designer denim, and anything with a distinctive factory hem.
Is an original hem visible?
From the outside it looks as if the jeans were made at that length. There's a small seam on the inside just above the hem. It's usually reattached with a chain stitch rather than the factory lockstitch, which doesn't affect the look or durability.
Quick comparison
| Standard hem | Original hem | |
|---|---|---|
| Keeps factory fade | No | Yes |
| Finish | Crisp and new | Worn-in and authentic |
| Best for | Dark, raw, smart denim | Washed and designer denim |
| Cost | Lower | Higher (more labour) |
Where to get it done
Not every high-street tailor offers original hems, so ask before you hand over a pair. Denim specialists usually do. Repair My Denim, for example, offers an original hem service by post.
Whichever you choose, the measurement is what matters most. Read how to pin your jeans or how to measure your inside leg.