Ask a denim enthusiast where the best jeans come from and there's a good chance they'll say Japan. It's an interesting story, because Japan wasn't where jeans were invented.
How it started
American jeans arrived in Japan after the Second World War and became hugely desirable. In the following decades, Japanese manufacturers began making their own, and the town of Kojima, in Okayama Prefecture, became known as the home of Japanese jeans thanks to its long textile history.
The vintage obsession
In the 1980s and 90s, as American mills switched to faster modern looms, a wave of Japanese makers set out to recreate the vintage American jeans of the 1940s and 50s, sometimes using the old shuttle looms American mills no longer wanted. A group of Osaka-based brands from this era became known as the "Osaka Five".
What makes Japanese denim different
- Shuttle-loomed selvedge fabric (what is selvedge?)
- Deep, rich indigo, sometimes naturally dyed
- Character-rich textures from slub yarns and slow weaving
- Obsessive detailing: chain-stitched hems, hidden rivets, quality hardware
- Heavyweight options, sometimes well over 20oz
Is it worth the price?
If you love the process of wearing in raw denim and watching it fade, very possibly. The fabric is often exceptional. If you just want comfortable, good-looking jeans, a well-made pair from almost anywhere will serve you well. Use our quality checklist.
Looking after them
Premium Japanese denim usually arrives raw and may be unsanforised, so read up on raw denim before washing. When alterations or repairs are needed, use a denim specialist who will protect the details (what to ask).