Jeans that fit perfectly at the waist and seat but flap around the ankles are frustrating. Tapering fixes this: it slims the leg to the shape you want and leaves the rest alone.
What is tapering?
Tapering takes in the leg seams so the leg narrows gradually towards the ankle. Done well, it looks as if the jeans were cut that way. There are two common versions:
- Knee-down taper. Slims from the knee to the hem. Best if the jeans fit well up top but feel wide at the ankle.
- Full-length taper. Slims the whole leg from the hip down. Best if they're loose through the thigh too.
Which seam?
Most tailors taper on the inside seam, because many jeans have a selvedge or distinctive stitching on the outseam that's worth preserving (see what is selvedge denim). Some jeans are better tapered on both seams so the leg stays balanced.
Show, don't tell
The easiest way to get the perfect taper is to bring or send a reference pair that already fits the way you like. Otherwise, give the leg opening you want at the hem, measured flat, and at the knee.
Pair it with a hem
Tapered jeans often look better slightly shorter, so they don't stack at the ankle. See which hem to choose.
Where to get it done
Tapering is bread-and-butter work for denim specialists. If you don't have one nearby, it can be done by post. Repair My Denim, for example, offers knee-down and full-length tapering and will match a reference pair.