When a £30 pair of jeans tears, it's annoying. When a £200 pair of designer or selvedge jeans tears, it hurts. The good news is that premium denim is usually the most worth repairing: the fabric is better, and a repair costs a fraction of a replacement.
What makes premium jeans different
- Heavier or raw denim that develops personal fades
- Selvedge outseams with the coloured "self-edge" visible when cuffed
- Chain-stitched hems that create a "roping" effect when washed
- Branded hardware: buttons, rivets and zips
- Specific washes and distressing that are hard to recreate
What to ask a repairer
- Will you colour-match the thread? Indigo comes in dozens of shades.
- Do you patch with denim? Denim patches flex naturally; canvas or iron-on ones don't.
- Can you keep the original hem? An original hem preserves the factory fade (explained here).
- Can you keep the original zip or button?
- Which seam will you taper? On selvedge jeans, it should be the inside one.
Repair early
A small hole on premium denim is a small repair. Leave it, and it becomes a big patch that's harder to hide. If you notice thinning at the crotch or knees, act then.
Choosing who repairs them
For expensive jeans, go to someone who works on denim every day rather than a general alterations shop. Repair My Denim in Cambridge is one denim-only option. It works on designer and raw denim and takes jeans by post from across the UK.